Some places you just fall in love with. Mutinondo Wilderness is such a place. Hidden in the Muchinga Highlands between the Bangweulu Wetlands and Luangwa Valley, this private nature reserve ranks among Africa’s most peaceful and inspiring destinations.
The stunning scenery of the reserve is dominated by huge rounded granite boulders, often called Whaleback Mountains, rising up to some 250 meters above the miombo woodlands and interspersing dambo grasslands. Between the mountains run forest-lined streams forming rapids and waterfalls. The lodge, with four spacious chalets and several campsites, sits on top of one of the mountains, overlooking the reserve. The bar and restaurant also offer spectacular views and are open to all guests. All buildings are unique in design, built from rocks and other local materials, blending in perfectly with the surroundings.
The granite boulders serve as a testimony to the forces that shaped the rift, along a line from northern Botswana through Zambia all the way up to the Middle East. It is here that the two African continental plates meet. Some 1.5 billion years ago, huge balls of extremely hot liquid magma (lava) pushed their way up between the edges of these plates. Cooling down halted their march, but in Mutinondo they finally came to the surface a few million years ago. Around that time, the two continental plates moved towards each other, pushing up and tilting their edges, forming highlands and exposing the underground granite balls. When the plates moved away from each other again, cracks formed which would become, among others, the Luangwa Valley.
Walking up one of the mountains is a very popular activity in the reserve. The breath-taking views from the top are unforgettable. Combined with an extensive network of signposted trails, the area is the ultimate destination for hikers. Unescorted hiking is perfectly safe due to the absence of potentially dangerous animals. Although wildlife is not the main attractant, visitors can see some of the special mammals of the area. Millennia-old rock paintings form another attraction.
Enthusiastic hikers should also certainly enquire about guided overnight hikes from Mutinondo into the Luangwa Valley, descending through the stunningly beautiful escarpment. Less fanatic hikers can opt for a leisurely walk along the river via the many small but attractive waterfalls and rapids. Few will resist a swim in the crystal clear (croc and hippo-free!) waters of the numerous pools. Canoes and mountain bikes further add to the range of free activities on offer, making it an ideal destination for children of all ages.
Mutinondo Wilderness is an absolute heaven for nature enthusiasts. The reserve is famous for many special birds such as the bar-winged weaver and chestnut-headed flufftail. No less than 1,770 plants are found on the reserve, several of which occur only here. An astounding 123 species of orchids colour the grasslands and woodlands in October to March.
Duiker, bushbuck and warthog are regularly seen. Klipspringer and bush hyrax (“Dassie”) occupy the rocks, while roan antelope and reedbuck occur in the dambos and the secretive sitatunga antelope, otters and chequered elephant shrew along the streams. Of great excitement was the finding of a species of frog new to science in 2015. Many visitors will also vividly remember the numerous colourful rainbow skinks on the rocks.
Despite all this, you wouldn’t be the first to find yourself just unwinding at the lodge, breathing in the perfect peace that surrounds you. Whatever you’re looking for, there’s a great risk you will fall in love with the place.
